It’s not tragic to die doing something you love.


Waves are not measured in feet and inches, they are measured in increments of fear.

We’re all equal before a wave.

Out of the water, I am nothing.

My passion for surfing was more than my fear of sharks.

I think when a surfer becomes a surfer, it’s almost like an obligation to be an environmentalist at the same time.

There is nothing, nothing, more sad than a surfer who used to surf.

You can’t stop the waves, but you can learn to surf.

Surfing is the first thing I can remember being consumed by.

The best surfer out there is the one having the most fun.